Lutz Huelle worked for the man himself, so if you see Margiela’s imprint here, that’s why.
Huelle’s new collection picked up where his Spring show left off. Silhouette-wise, the shoulder was still the thing, only this time more so. Folded, rolled, poufed—he had this writer right up until the end, when the exaggerated shoulder met the exaggerated sleeve, and the proportions erred too wide. Huelle gave the hybridized outerwear he did last season another go around, too. It looked right then, and it looks right now, whether he combined askew jean jackets and bright fur to the knees or an MA-1 jacket in blue with red flannel. Puffers promise to be a popular sight again next Fall. Anybody shopping for an uncommon one should consider Huelle’s, which are slender where those of other designers are boxy, and come combined with denim, houndstooth, and even a Fair Isle sweater—clever. Bicep-high gloves with spangles at the wrist gave a polished, elegant look to a jean jacket and a pair of short dresses with slices up the insides of the sleeves. Huelle’s show drew a small cadre of influential editors, but it’s mostly off-the-radar of the international crowd, even with the Margiela connection; they missed a good one this season.
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