Jil Sander Navy Fall 2017 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly....On Fow24news.com

This season, the inspiration for the Jil Sander Navy collection seemed a bit lofty. A sentence in the press release included the line “tells the story of a young Parisienne traveling to Venice during the Baroque era.” But the label isn’t about 17th-century flashiness or French tropes......
Highlighting the larger-than-life era of grandeur came down to silhouettes with X-Acto knife precision: Dress skirts were expansive but structured, and trousers were wide with sharp front pleats. But the idea of breadth didn’t translate only through shape: A red shirtdress’s skirt cleverly had red and white blotted prints sliced in between a few of the pleats, making the piece seemingly expand.

The most impressive parts of the collection were the military touches, like the army combat uniform-style shoulder pockets. Tacked onto a windowpane check gray coat and a zip-up retro polo shirt, the pocket detail added that polished tomboy tailoring the label is so well known for. A long rigger’s belt was attached to the waist of a navy blue jacket and when fastened, it created a clean but pretty hourglass silhouette around the body.

Necklines stood out this season and were more revealing than usual. A cropped camel jacket with two lone double-breasted buttons and a black dress with puffed sleeves had the collars widely opened so it seemed as if they balanced low on the shoulders. It was the tomboy’s version of sex appeal.

There were some pieces that seemed a bit out of place. A jacket covered in a paint-speckled print seemed too busy for the label’s pared-back, menswear-minded customer. Still, a hot pink bomber was a wild card head-turner. The structure was unfussy and the hue was jolting, a combination that made an unexpected but welcome impact.