a new spirit is running though Paris fashion.Gone are the rigid rules about the definition of ‘haute couture’ or high fashion. The great names are still to the fore, especially Chanel and Dior – which is celebrating its 70th birthday with an exhibition at the Paris museum Les Arts Décoratifs.
Yet all eyes are on the American invasion: Monique Lhuillier, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte – all deciding to show in Paris, rather than New York. They join Miu Miu, which Miuccia Prada had previously shown in Paris; and Australian Toni Maticevski, offering a collection that encompasses resort, ready-to-wear and couture.Whether all these designers can justifiably be stitched into the couture season is not really the point. High jewellery has long since presented at this period. And the old order of shows has been challenged by attempts – mostly in the United States – to close the gap between presentation and delivery. The ‘See Now, Buy Now’ concept has not been a success. But the entire fashion universe has been forced to face up to the digital world.All that is a long way from hand-crafted clothes made specifically for each client. But the current churning in the fashion industry is no different from what is facing many other areas of commerce.
What matters about this Paris season is that after the agony of repeated terror attacks and a stagnant political scene, the low spirits in the city are rising.
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