Julien Dossena, who has been at the helm since 2013, has grown in confidence and now seems comfortable with his execution of the founder's vision. So confident that he created clothes that were sleek and unfussy, and showed them with total simplicity.
The result was a streak of silver running like a knife blade through all the previous efforts to make "wacko Paco" relevant again. Way back then, half a century ago at the time of the first moon landing and the peak of the space race, the world was in awe of futurism. Now, that clean, clear outer space message is back - at least in fashion.
The Dossena approach was intelligent and exceptional. The clothes - both those made out of chainmail and in cloth - were cut on the bias, giving a slithery effect. Yet everything had an open, sporty spirit.
The last designer to make chainmail sing was Gianni Versace, back in the Nineties but his approach was to sexualise the cold, hard metallic material.
For Paco Rabanne, whose original connection to metal was through his butcher father's tools, the new designer is using mini mesh - a form of pliable chainmail.
The look was fresh, even sporty, or with that look of modern smart casual that seems to come so easily to the French.
The final touch was a round bag with a reflective line - another example of the way the Paco look was perfectly poised.
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