THE SCENE:A yawning white catwalk with a glistening white backdrop served to focus all attention on the models (if that sounds like a given in fashion shows - it's not. The lure of an iPhone gander through Instagram, Whatsapp, Slack is too much for many to resist, even at the most gripping shows). A heartbeat bleep on the soundtrack started in high-pitched fashion and then was cleverly overlaid with a heavy beat and finally, strings.
THE COLLECTION:Ackermann's searingly sharp tailoring got a sensual update for spring via cut-outs at the décolletage, neat napkin folds at the clavicle and incisions made round the shoulders and the breast. Even more surprising: boob tubes, worn as panels under edge-to-edge coats and with skinny leather pants, or over high-waisted trousers. A selection of clingy, figure-hugging knits and jersey suggested a renewed awareness of feminine wiles to complement the hard edges - that "soft sensuality" he said he was searching for. And as for a leather catsuit with a beautifully constructed neckline of diagonal panels? Damn sexy.
THE BEAUTY:For the make-up look, Inge Grognard for MAC took inspiration from the graphic structure of the collection. "I wanted some of the girls to have a very sharp red lip so when they walked down the catwalk, their profiles would be striking." Hair stylist Duffy for L'Oréal Paris used wig caps to keep the models' hair tight to the head. Then, using double-sided tape, he pressed in chopped-up hair extensions for an ultra textured finish.
THE SYNOPSIS:Ackermann injected his rigorous, strict silhouette with sultriness - and it worked.
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