The show took place in a West Village loft with painted white benches and brick. Sunlight poured through the windowpanes and onto the faded fabrics, beginning with a sleeveless linen jumpsuit in washed-out gray, topped with a marigold silk-wrapped visor. There were striped cotton poplins in Santon-style shapes and the pretty white eyelet blouses one expects from a Provençal collection. What stood out were the many aprons, reimagined every which way: A soft wrap skirt; a pale blue button-down dress over a white sack; and a series of little diamond-dotted cloths, tied jauntily to one side over white peplums. There were also a few takes on classic French underpinnings, like lurid green pantaloons trimmed with lace.
Backstage, Lai’s mood board was unexpectedly pinned with photographs from Jackie Nickerson’s Farm, a photographic series that captured the agrarian culture of Malawi, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. Those humanistic portraits informed the show’s styling—such as the white cable-knits wrapped around the waist—and the brighter colors that characterized the second half of the show. Consider a languid silk dress the color of ripe mango. Though simple in execution, the sudden departure took the viewer out of France—somewhere further afield, but comfortably so.
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