Luo took over the first floor of the Whitney Museum of American Art and offered his version of the laid-back style that has become synonymous with California. By capturing Coppola’s worldview rather than creating versions of the now-iconic Nancy Steiner and Milena Canonero costumes, he delivered a collection focused on girlhood and suburbia.
Starting with a transparent metallic number with a ruched waist, Luo went ’90s, giving his audience slip dresses embellished with lace, bubble sunglasses, and cropped jackets reminiscent of boleros. At times, unwieldy details like elongated knee-length sleeves or tulle accents on denim skirts felt unnecessary, but they were balanced by effective moments. By using drawstrings on skirts and dresses to create asymmetrical shapes, offering colorful knit frocks with intricate weaving, and playing with metallic pleats, the designer showcased his technique while having fun. By the time model Deion Smith skateboarded through the crowd, showing off the transparent mesh knitwear Luo presented for men, the audience was in a pretty good mood, too.
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