It began with vertical stripes on washed earth-toned twill, a less literal representation of roots. Eventually, flowers came into play, with red and blue watercolors blooming across a windowpane check dress and small explosions of silver tinsel on a black chiffon shift and matching skirt. There were also floral appliqués, hand-cut from a new Italian lace and placed across white and dark blue tulle, inspired by the delicate rice paper drawings of Brazilian artist Mira Schendel.
“I liked the simple nature of those outlines,” Noyes says. She also took a moment to reexamine her professional past at Lanvin and John Galliano—a loosened shoulder, the drape of a bias-cut dress in a silver lamé. “It’s the fusion of American sportswear and couture detailing,” Noyes adds. That fusion is defined by her favorite piece: a simple navy silk dress, ruched meticulously along the sleeves and one side, so that one sees “the hand in it.”
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