The obsessiveness for detail associated with Japan lines up well with Lippes’s own—see the vintage Japanese buttons he’s collected to accessorize his sharp tailoring and shirting, each one delicately hand-painted in enamel.
Of course, Lippes is a maker of American sportswear; he likes denim, he coined the term athluxury for his deluxe sweats, and he knows his way around a slip dress. So his idea here was to take familiar American codes and filter them through a Japanese lens. The process produced a rich collection with a lot of variety. A satin bomber was quilted (a very American technique) with floral Japonica using vintage kimono scraps, while a 1950s-ish party dress—fitted bodice, full skirt—was stitched with smaller versions of those quilted flowers. A reversible coat and culottes in a jacquard that reproduced a Japanese screen scene (quite grand) hung on the rails side by side with silk jersey bodysuits (athletic). Best of all were the East-West denim mash-ups, among them a fitted skirt made from vintage shibori-dyed textiles from Burkina Faso (which apparently adopted the traditional Japanese process) and loose-fitting pants in checked indigo linen. There was also acid-wash denim (an American invention, surely) on a kimono-style jacket. As for finally making that trip to Japan, Lippes has his sights set on April. “For the flowers.”
A word about the sublime white silk dress made from one piece of fabric and knotted at the neck: It would make a lovely wedding dress for a bride on any continent.









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