Some of that consideration was reflected in the suggestive details on pieces, like the shoulders of dresses that had been patterned to look as though a coat had been draped cape-like over the shoulders, or shortalls and jumpsuits with wraps like tied sweater sleeves just below the waist. Elsewhere, Kowalska provided a real service to the fashion consumer in offering a wardrobe solution to the conundrum of the sheer clothing trend: Her bias-cut printed leggings, crochet tights, and bike shorts will come in handy when the time arrives for figuring out how to wear a see-through dress.
A Détacher collections tend to be rather familiar affairs. Kowalska doesn’t stray much from her signatures—which is a strength of her brand, by the way—a quality that’s engendered fierce loyalty from her artsy clientele. This outing was distinctive primarily to the degree that its dresses, though plentiful, felt like an afterthought. The focus was really on separates, and trousers in particular.
There were the aforementioned leggings, pencil skirts in the same materials that shoppers are likely to snap up, printed jeans, and lightweight sweaters with knit-in mesh stripes. Kowalska was also striking an atypically sportif tone, showing lots of knit hoodies, and patterned sweatshirts and anoraks. There was an outdoorsy mien overall, and a sense of durability. To some degree, you got the sense that Kowalska was filling in the blanks she speculated might exist in her loyal fans’ closets, offering them clothes to round out their wardrobes. It ought to be enough to make them very happy.
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