Ironically, high-rise denim as its worn today looks best on those whose bodies reveal no evidence of having children...I believe myself to be able to
maintain a fit distance from the tides of fashion. In recent years I've said no
to global trends like Moto jackets, which scan too costume on me, and
"cold shoulder" tops, which I fail to comprehend on an aesthetic or
conceptual level. Did that leave me with approximately seven shouldered tops to
contemplate purchasing in the past year? Absolutely. I won't give in.
But don't mistake this obstinance
for a need to be different; I'm quite content to look like everyone else when I
like what everyone else is wearing. Take, for example, my rising fascination
with the popular, and somewhat broad, category of denim labelled as "mom
jeans," which imbue their wearers with that insouciant look that is the ne
plus ultra of chic in our times. The more I've observed them, the more I've
longed to sheath myself in such casual cool, one rigid leg of denim at a time.
And yet, I've hesitated to try them.
The fear has it roots in my suspicion that, despite their name suggesting
otherwise, contemporary mom jeans are absolutely not for moms. Instead, I presumed,
they are best played by those for whom the matronly silhouette highlights, by
way of contrast, the absence of any history of pregnancy in the body
inhabiting it. But now that I am back into my old—stretchy—jeans following my
recent pregnancy, and newly emboldened to reenter the non-maternity fashion
world, I decided it was time to determine if I was right. This all brings us to
last Monday, when I ordered seven pairs online to try to find out.
Before I proceed with enumerating my
findings on the matter of whether moms can wear mom jeans, I should set a few
parameters. By moms, I am referring not necessarily to women who have had
children, but to those among us whose bodies were altered in a typical fashion
by having children. Colloquially this is known as mummy tummy; real phenomenon, awful phrase,
describing the little under-belly pouch that is a short-term addition for some,
long-term for many.
By mom jeans I am referring to the
type of high rise, rigid denim recently, and splendidly,. I am not, notably,
speaking of their pleated, supple, often elasticized waist namesake in a 2003.
The jeans I ordered were a mix of
rises, sizes, and prices, some with a tiny bit of stretch, some without. After
tearing through all the plastic bags—am I the only one who tries to do this as
gently as possible so they may be reused? Are they ever reused?—and removing
the pants, I quickly determined that the suggestion to size-up was wise. Wasp
waists. I began with the 1 percent elastic, 99 percent cotton options because I
thought they would be the answer to this puzzle. Unfortunately, the modest
contribution to comfort provided by the presence of stretch in no way accounted
for the fact that they were clearly less cute. The mom jean effect I was after
could only be achieved with 100 percent cotton.
Getting those elastic-free pairs on
was difficult. I had to take breaks between the buttons. Each button. Unlike
the instantly conforming stretch denim we've all become accustom to in the past
two decades, breaking in 100 percent cotton jeans takes time, commitment, or so
the jeans' reviewers explained. I contemplated what kind of commitment would be
required to make the pairs that I could only remove by slowly peeling them off
work. I suspect it's not one I want to make.
I found one pair I liked, the
dishearteningly named "Wedgie" jean by Levi's, which the brand
describes as "the Mom Jean...finally evolved." They
were hardly a home run. I liked how the higher than usual placement of the
pockets on the back of the pants work as invisible puppet strings, lifting my
backside north and creating an agreeably peachy configuration. Less flattering were the
assumptions about the female form sewn into the hip and waist region. My
surfeit flesh, clearly confused as to where it was being directed, distributed
itself to wherever it could find refuge: small undulations of flesh appeared
between the buttons, and a small tide pool of belly surfaced above the waist.
Going up a size might remedy that issue, yes, but then they would be too baggy
in the leg. I know they are supposed to mold to my body over time. But when?
And how much?
Emma McClendon, Associate Curator of
Costume at The Museum at FIT who recently put together an exhibit about denim, said the return of the mom jean
is largely the result of the cyclical nature of fashion. Many are ready to try
something different from the stretchy skinny jeans that have held on for nearly
20 years now. A rising interest in norm core and 90s fashion also inspires some
of the interest in the high waisted, tapered "mom" silhouette, which,
McClendon pointed out, was the standard cut for all women for most of denim's
history.
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"Wearing denim has always been
a balancing act between being incredibly cool and incredibly frumpy. The
defining characteristic, that thing the defines whether a jean is hot or not,
tends to be more about the body that is in it and how we culturally perceive
that body, " McClendon said.
I found one pair I liked, a
dishearteningly named "Wedgie" jean, which the brand described as "the Mom Jean...finally
evolved."
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