Glitter Control: Paco Rabanne, Manish Arora And Carven....Fashionweekly....On Fow24news.com

Sparkle has become a streamlined decoration as it moves from high-camp to high-tech.A rare fashion treat: a designer who puts more into resuscitating a brand than its founder achieved in his heyday. Julien Dossena has star quality - and it shows in every outfit he designs under the Paco Rabanne label....

The result is concise, strong, and a little daring, if you accept that "Future Sex" written in sequins above a glitter mesh tunic would shock anyone today.

But that sly message is not wrong. The collection was sexy in its short skirts, futuristic in everything from a silver box handbag to a metal mesh transparent skirt, worn sportily over shorts.

Sometimes the nods to the "wacko Paco" heritage were calmed down to a rainbow circle on the pocket of a dress that referred back somewhat to Courrèges - a designer of the same 1960s space age era as Paco Rabanne.Another silvered message flashed by: "Canned candies". That was a cute way of referring to all those shiny hoodies and metallic surfaces. But Dossena also practised glitter control.

Not every woman will go to work in a futuristic, silver cropped top and long skirt, apparently made from silver threads. So let her wear a neat horizontally striped sweater with zigzag skirt which seemed to be in simple stretched knit.

Trained by Nicolas Ghesquière (who was sitting front row and is now at Louis Vuitton), Dossena has brought with him an echo of their time at Balenciaga. But the Paco collection has become increasingly his own vision, with its insertions of lace, blended into sportswear and cyber colours like a metallic blue, that belong to the digital age, not the space age.