Shown in Burlington Arcade—a 199-year-old shopping mall—this was an unswervingly modern collection steeped in nostalgia. The washed color palette was meant to reflect the sepia fade of the vintage family photographs Pyo had studied while brewing her plans for a wardrobe intended to gently evoke hand-me-downs and treasured thrift-store finds given fresh life: clothes with a personal heritage.
Hence a long hemmed silk dress with a cream and black bisected skirt, a white front, a cream right sleeve, and an incongruously red left sleeve—as if it had already been lived in, loved, stained, and then haphazardly repaired. A pale-blue long-collared jacket with scalloped pocket flaps might have been a pre-loved Wrangler from way back when—if not for the precision of the fit and the lushness of the faux leather. Whether on black leather skirts, olive macs, or a tobacco-drill work jacket—part of a look Pyo said augured her upcoming unisex line—button lines tended to undulate rather than run straight. On outerwear, pockets were enlarged and tilted, and hems were left unfinished: carefully put-together not-quite togetherness.
Pyo’s sharp-toed kitten heel slippers and low Western boots in leather and snake, plus an at-least-five-style handbag offer, showed—along with the variety of the clothing—how rapidly this label is broadening. It’s exciting to see a young London label that combines thoughtfully pragmatic creativity with powerful commercial potential. And yes, there were (a few) ruffles.
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