Jacquemus Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear......Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com - FOW 24 NEWS

728x90 AdSpace



Jacquemus Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear......Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com

 The fashion gossip-sphere has been gripped of late by Simon Porte Jacquemus’s #newjob. Was it Céline? No. Was is Courrèges? No again. Was it Pierre Cardin? No, no, no. The young Frenchman, having milked social media for as long as he could get away with, finally spilled the beans at his show.....
a very well attended affair—Christian Lacroix was in the crowd—in one of the city’s grandest locations, the Petit Palais. The big reveal came at the end. Jacquemus is launching a menswear line, his hoodie made the announcement for him.

Jacquemus is a Paris darling, paid attention to by everyone who matters, thanks to an ineffable mix of confidence, charm, and risk-taking. The fact that he has risen so far without the backing of one of the city’s super-groups makes him all the more irresistible, and the addition of a men’s line is likely only to intensify the interest around him.

 What he sent out for women this evening was a mix of his inventive tailoring, sweater dressing, and influences from what his program notes described as a trip to Morocco that he took after his last runway show. “I got lost in the souks with just one thing on my mind: I want to make it my next summer collection. I came back to Paris and made my winter of it; my winter collection. Not wasting any more time, my warm winter.”

Destination collections are often prosaic, especially when that destination is Morocco, a land that will forever be linked in the fashion imagination to the late, legendary Yves Saint Laurent, who made his home there. Indeed, Jacquemus said he visited the recently opened YSL museum in Marrakech and cried. “But I’m not working for a museum,” he said. “I have no interest to look at the [Saint Laurent] book, it was just a feeling.”

  It’s hard to come up with another designer as comfortable with straight-up sensuality as Jacquemus. There are no complicating details or high fashion affectations here; just a mix of clingy, second-skin knits, flowing kaftan jumpsuits, draped slips, and teeny-tiny T-shirts worn braless. A few of the dresses were too short, and there was a fair bit of repetition, but the overall effect felt significantly more substantial than last season.

Jacquemus is very good indeed at conjuring a feeling. If Luca Guadagnino ever swapped Italy for southern France, Simon Porte is his man. Perched on the perimeter of the Petit Palais tonight, under Georges Picard’s circa 1909 fresco titled “Triumph of the Woman,” of all things, and watching the designer’s inclusive, beautiful cast stroll by, this audience member felt optimism and (maybe it was those model smiles?) something close to joy. He should bottle it. Here’s an idea: a Jacquemus perfume collaboration with Comme des Garçons.

Jacquemus Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear......Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com Reviewed by FOW 24 News on February 27, 2018 Rating: 5  The fashion gossip-sphere has been gripped of late by Simon Porte Jacquemus’s #newjob. Was it Céline? No. Was is Courrèges? No again. Was...

No comments: