Keeping it real, and staying close to the opinions of their extensive girlfriend-group, is the Marques Almeida MO: but this, nevertheless, would rank as a large-scale show in any city. Something about the way this Portuguese couple is progressing proves how good their antennae are: they design for actual characters, who they’ve made relationships with via Instagram, and have them walk in their shows. Which is exactly why the subject of Christian Lacroix bubbled up under those railway arches, just as it – and the panoply of late eighties haute couture – has all over the season.
It was vast stroke of luck for the young designers. To their credit, the results were far from literal. They cut the Lacroix references into their favorite street-wear, amongst the bold stripes and utility wear: here, a Victoriana leg-o-mutton sleeve, there a brocade corset with a crenellated hem, and there – and all over – mini pouf skirts and taffeta dresses inflated in the same spirit. If it resembled anything, it was probably closest to the way the Junior Gaultier line used to look in the eighties. That’s a good thing: those sorts of labels are being chased down by young people everywhere. What Marques Almeida offers is spot-on taste-wise, in sync with the big themes du jour, creatively crowd-sourced from young women, and accessibly priced. Lots to like.
No comments: