Derek Lam Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear...Fashionweekly..On Fow24news.com

Derek Lam quoted National Velvet, the movie that made Elizabeth Taylor a star, in his show notes.....
“I want it all quickly ‘cause I don’t want God to stop and think and wonder if I’m getting more than my share.” His theme for Fall was equestrianism. It’s a reference point that’s often explored by American sportswear specialists—Ralph Lauren comes to mind—but Lam’s polished, efficient interpretation was neither hackneyed nor cliché.

Look 1 was a glorious navy suede cape paired with swaggering trousers and a generously proportioned black leather “feed bag.” It set the tone for a collection that was strong on coats, from on-theme quilted satin styles to more urbane cuts in chalk stripes to a single gabardine robe coat in a brilliant shade of amethyst. Lam’s graphic knits and side-stripe pants took their cues from jockey uniforms without leaning too literal.

Only a brief interlude featuring appliqués of equine silhouettes came off as overtly referential and overly specific. “Must love horses” will not be a prerequisite for admiring or wearing Lam’s finale gowns, though they were inspired by the folds and drapes of fabric in a skirt when a woman rides sidesaddle. The long dresses were minimal and dramatic in equal measure, which isn’t easy to achieve. That National Velvet sentiment notwithstanding, this collection stood in sharp relief to the hoo-ha that we’ve seen so much of elsewhere in New York.