Belstaff Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com - FOW 24 NEWS

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Belstaff Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com

 Delphine Ninous has proved a highly able creative courier of Belstaff’s heritage-biker message, and this season, gifted the 70th anniversary of the brand’s defining garment, she delivered again....
As previously reported in the reviews for Pre-Fall and menswear, the invention of the Trialmaster jacket in 1948 was this brand’s greatest eureka moment: the Belstaff equivalent of the Burberry trench or the Max Mara camel coat. Naturally, Ninous traveled deep into the house archive to research a collection meant to reflect that. She returned with an insight into just how differently her company’s garments have been adopted and adapted by various youth movements over the years. “We found a beautiful Trailmaster peppered with biker badges, and a fantastic perfecto-style jacket with a mod-style Harrington-check lining, and all these pictures of mods, punks, rockers, skins—so many different youth movements—wearing our jackets customized to reflect their groups.”

 In this spirit, Ninous chopped and changed and cut and pasted the fabrication and detail of many of her key pieces in this collection. The “Rider” coat came in a soft olive, vegetable-tanned leather and a desert-camo technical cotton and nylon blend. The Trialmaster was both pared down and luxed up in black bonded, raw-cut leather and an oil-sheened green suede. There was an interesting green wool overcoat with an MA1-touched inner liner, and a biker patched with panels of animal-print cowhide, vinyl, painted leather, and velvet.

This season, Belstaff is reestablishing the manufacture of some of its key pieces in U.K. factories. Ninous and her team shot this lookbook in a dilapidated East London industrial site, using a vintage ’80s Ford Escort as a prop: so very English. Ninous, however, is so very French. When she says “Ford Escort,” it sounds written by Rimbaud. That accent was expressed here via red-on-blue Breton sweaters with kinks of leather at the neck, some beautifully articulated wide velvet pants—especially fine in red—and some killer boots with animal print–panel uppers.


Belstaff Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com Reviewed by FOW 24 News on February 20, 2018 Rating: 5  Delphine Ninous has proved a highly able creative courier of Belstaff’s heritage-biker message, and this season, gifted the 70th annivers...

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