Anna Sui Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly..On - FOW 24 NEWS

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Anna Sui Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly..On

 Anna Sui is fashion’s biggest fan. Growing up in Detroit, she would obsess over pictures from Seventeen and Mademoiselle magazines in her bedroom, images that she has saved to this day and that appear on her Fall 2018 mood-board....
For all that’s changed since then, her obsessive love of fashion, design, illustration, and music remains. No matter how famous or successful she has become, or how famous and successful her friends are—many of whom sat in her front row today—she still retains that youthful quality of really, passionately, deeply admiring and loving something. And so she titled her Fall 2018 collection Beloved, because it’s about the fashion world she “dreamed about before I came to New York.”

That was the world of the couturiers, of the prim and put-together sixties, before Sui’s much-referenced bohemians kick started the counter culture movement and took over fashion. As she parsed the pieces in her showroom during a preview, Sui explained that the collection was really about the joy of getting dressed up, not in the splashy glam rock ’80s way she’s referenced before, but in the staid tradition of those couturiers, when clients would watch part of a runway show in the morning and return hours later in black tie, for the evening selection. The only difference on today’s runway was that instead of matching their clutches to their shoes, Sui’s models wore coordinating vegetable tanned leather fanny packs that matched their lace up boots and platform oxfords by Bed Stü.

 Which is to say that for all the staid runway traditions Sui referenced this time around, including Gigi and Bella Hadid opening the show together with a very posh strut and a twirl, the designer couldn’t help but inject the collection with some Mudd Club-era glam. Yasmin Wijnaldum arrived, hips swiveling down the runway, in a groovy velvet suit shot with a coral and violet pattern. Underneath an apron dress, Sara Grace Wallerstedt wore a bright red and pink ruffled blouse dotted with rhinestones. Adut Akech came out in a two-toned faux fur shearling coat in a shade of cyan that could remind you, if you were paying attention to Sui’s 296-image deep moodboard, of Anya Phillips’s electric eyeshadow.

But wait—there’s more! As part of a partnership with Levi’s, Sui created some incredibly wearable corduroy trousers and blazers. Her trans-seasonal collaboration with James Coviello birthed a sweet embroidered tunic. There was also a Lurex-trimmed knit dress and cardigan combo in kelly green, a floral faux fur coat, glitter sunglasses, polo maxi dresses, brocades, laces, and one mint green gown worn by Bella Hadid to close the show with rose-colored beading at the neck that Sui wants to get on the red carpet, but I’d like to see on a modern bride. All to say that this collection was heavy on clothes. In the past, the worst thing you could say about the designer was that she could really stick to a theme, but today, her collection ranged far and wide, producing daywear, evening wear, and everything in between.

Will people wear it? Maybe, maybe not. Something about the harsh lighting of Spring Studios made Sui’s rich vision seem slightly dulled this time around. At a time when fashion is constantly questioning its purpose, witnessing its own super fan reflect on her own fantasies, referencing everyone from Norman Norell to the obscure illustrator Anne Marie Burden in the process, was really a delight. But perhaps Sui would benefit from challenging her own runway format. With everyone changing venues, the fashion flock would certainly follow her to the spaces she loves, rich with history no doubt, around the city. After all these years, after all the admiration she’s poured on fashion, the industry has become a big fan of her too.

Anna Sui Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly..On Reviewed by FOW 24 News on February 13, 2018 Rating: 5  Anna Sui is fashion’s biggest fan. Growing up in Detroit, she would obsess over pictures from Seventeen and Mademoiselle magazines in her...

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