Shown in the shadow of a twinkling Eiffel Tower, Vaccarello’s collection tracked Saint Laurent’s life from his lush Moroccan garden to his Parisian couture atelier, giving contemporary YSL muses plenty to wear for their own journeys. Sarah Mower’s review will be on Vogue.com shortly—until then, a primer of Vaccarello’s new Saint Laurent cliques.
The Nouveau Bohemians
Inspired
by Saint Laurent’s villa in Marrakesh, Vaccarello opened the show with a
parade of boho peasant blouses, scrunched boots, leather shorts, and
eclectic pendants....
The look was comprised of many prints, patterns, and
fabrics to give off a sumptuous spirit, while still showing enough skin
to qualify as a Vaccarello babe. Look for these numbers on Vaccarello
fans like Lou Doillon and Caroline de Maigret.
The Softboys Next
came a section of glammed-up menswear looks. This season’s Saint
Laurent boy is just as thin and polished as his female counterparts, but
with a decidedly less aggressive vibe. Instead of hard-edged bad boys,
the Saint Laurent gents have become contemplative kids, with narrow
trousers and embellished jackets, that seem less primed for a night on
the town that for some aperitifs and philosophical banter. Or maybe
they’re in a shoegaze band. Lennon Gallagher, son of Liam, was in
Vaccarello
The Victorian Bad Girls
Proper,
white lace is not a material often associate with Vaccarello’s oeuvre,
but he found a way to make it his own tonight by shredding, cutting, and
splicing broderie anglaise tops together to a revealing end. Worn with
leather short shorts and knee boots, it was what the girls from Picnic at Hanging Rock would have worn if their girls school was in late-’70s Detroit.
The Vixens
Sex
appeal is par for the course at Saint Laurent. Tonight, that meant a
number of skintight black dresses—some with plunging necklines, others
with super-short hems—on a bevy of leggy models. While Anja Rubik was
not in this section, you know these looks were meant for her.
The Couture Clients With a Penchant for Clubbing
Hello,
volume! Inspired by Saint Laurent’s couture creations, Vaccarello sent
out a number of cloud-like minidresses in leather and feathers. The
pieces had a more glitzy take on that haute bourgeois, Rive Gauche
lifestyle so associated with Saint Laurent, like something intended more
for Rihanna than a Saint-Germain doyenne.
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