Piazza Sempione Ready-To-Wear....Fashionweekly...On Fow24news.com

In the last few seasons, art-inspired, slightly trend-tinged collections were marketed; but now apparently the clock had to perform a backward flip, so it was time for the always comforting “Back to the Roots” mantra....
The Fall collection, a quite spare, still presentation, displayed a few samples of the brand’s new-old course. It felt, and looked, more French Restauration than French Révolution.

“Timeless elegance” is a mantle that can be safely worn in transitional, uncertain circumstances. It was a concept called for to describe the lineup of classic, quite basic separates in the usual Italian fabrics associated with the “luxe factor”: alpacas, cashmeres, taffeta jacquards, brushed wools, shearlings, fil coupés, radzimirs, and so on. The focus was on daywear; shapes were clean and simple with a minimal, classy appeal. Well cut short car coats had matching shift dresses; cropped palazzo pants were worn with blazers or sleeveless waistcoats; dresses with knee-length A-line skirts were printed with elegant geometric patterns referring to Sonia Delaunay.

Pants have always been a forte of the house, so it seemed fitting that to mark the anniversary celebration—which seemed rather subdued—25 pairs of the most successful shapes were re-edited. Each one came with a name and a special linen label, a sort of “identity card" for each of the styles. It was sweet. Yet for a brand to stand out in today's hyper-crowded marketplace, it needs a distinctive voice and a strong identity, which is not just tagged to a pair of pants.