Her passion lies in tweaking the fit, fabric, or proportion, so even those “basics” look unlike anything else out there. Sweaters hang off the shoulders just so; pants have a singular slouch; shirts have wide, billowing sleeves. Those nuances might change from season to season, or they’ll persist; for instance, she’s been in the mood for ultra-wide-leg jeans for over a year now.
Her big stories for Pre-Fall were prints and pants. Lotan has long been known for her trousers, and she whipped up at least a dozen new styles: Her signature army pants now come in supple leather, and there was a pair of super-flared jeans inspired by Jane Birkin. She appeared in a few photos on Lotan’s mood board, alongside other late-’60s and early-’70s style icons: Mick Jagger in a ruffled blouse, Rod Stewart in a leopard suit. There was also a woman you might recognize from recent newspapers. Dressed in a camouflage jacket with a floral scarf wrapped around her hair, she was one of the Kurdish female fighters who defeated ISIS in Raqqa, Syria, back in October. She resonated with Lotan not only as a symbol of female strength, but as a reminder of Lotan’s upbringing in the Middle East, when the streets were full of army green. Her camp-floral mash-up inspired Lotan to introduce new prints in her own collection: camo mixed with leopard, a vintage-esque floral, and a snakeskin print.
If a floral blouse is the last thing you’d expect to find in Lotan’s showroom, a leopard slip dress might be a close second. Why was she suddenly drawn to bold, notice-me prints after years of neutrals? Perhaps it was the same reason there were so many suits in this collection. “There’s this feeling of self-reliance among women right now,” she said. “A suit makes you feel powerful, even if it’s just with a T-shirt.” For other women, a leopard dress might foster the same feeling, particularly with one of Lotan’s new leather jackets tossed over the shoulders.
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