"My interpretation of the Fifties in the Nineties. I looked at the vintage in the Nineties," said Prada of her research for the collection. That meant looking at herself too. Turning philosophical, she said, "Your past is always present somehow." It took her right back to 1993, when Miu Miu, the brand, was born and first shown in New York. Prada wanted to get in touch with "the freedom I felt at the beginning with Miu Miu in New York the sense of naivety", she said after her show. When asked, "freedom from what?" she talked of, "the heaviness of the brand, of the luxury. Thank god it's not fashionable anymore!" But if heavy, self-conscious luxury is out, what is in? The idea of making "beauty and luxury possible in real life," said Prada.
There were roomy, mannish blazers, grungy, check lumberjack jackets and strappy prom dresses layered over lace blouses. Printed coats looked like wipe-clean table cloths, and loose lace tunics were layered over white vests and grey schoolboy trousers.
"You can wear it out. It's not just secluded to limousines and hotels," said the designer. That meant flat shoes and layered up looks that could be taken apart and re-appropriated depending on who is doing the wearing. Speaking of which, Prada said the casting of the collection was the part she enjoyed most, "Seeing how different things look on different races and different people," she said. Such diversity was not borne out of political correctness, Prada insisted, but of a desire for her global brand to reflect the world we live in. "We are part of it," she stated simply.
As for that playlist, the designer studied the cultural significance of every single song. In the past, her show music was not so important. "Now I think the music is what pulls everything together. It gives the extra touch or spirit." Rebel Woman indeed.
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