There were thin pockets on the inside of a coat that could easily hide an iPhone and slim pockets that mimicked the continuation of slits on a white caftan dress. Slight details played an elevating note in this collection, especially on the more simple pieces: A green button-up had a fade on one side of its back, adding a level of depth, and on a collared shirt, there was a double placket that gave it an extra shot of nattiness. Teng’s standouts were on the print-based side, such as the royal blue and black striped Malay men’s suit that could easily be worn as polished separates.
There is, of course, Teng’s signature zero-waste method. She’s been working with the concept her whole career, exhibiting her clothing in museums around the world, and constantly honing the technique. One example of a zero-waste piece here is the white denim jacket with a weightless feel. For it, she dipped back into her archives, citing a similarly cut jacket that was on exhibit in Berlin. For the original jacket, there was extra waste when it came to the cross section of the neck; the cut-out gave the topper a flat back. But this time, Teng cut the neck differently. Although it was a slight adjustment, the decision to go completely zero-waste completely changed the form of the piece: It now has a rounded, scarab-shaped back. Maybe not everyone will understand the layers behind Teng’s mathematically involved fashion philosophy (though they should really try), but a crisp jacket like this is a classic and can easily become a wardrobe staple for any woman at any age.
No comments: